Qué hacen 4 argentinos a más de 6.000 metros de altura?

Willie y Damián Benegas, Leandro Maclean y Matías Erroz, son los argentinos estan en el Himalaya enfrentando un gran desafio llamado ”  Una expedición. Tres montañas: Everest, Lhotse y Nuptse”. Esta será la primera vez en que una expedición intentará ascender todas estas montañas, también conocida como la Herradura del Khumbu.

Hoy quiero compartir con ustedes este maravilloso relato de Leonardo Maclean, donde nos cuenta como es la vida en el campamento base.

26.4.2011 ||| ASI ES LA VIDA EN EL BASE CAMP

Posted on April 26, 2011 by admin

Hola, como andan?? Nosotros en el Base Camp, en nuestro 22vo día de expedición, ya preparando todo el equipo para irnos mañana bien tempranito a nuestra primer ronda de “trabajo” por los campamentos de altura.

Hoy, en la tranquilidad del descanso, les quiero mandar unas líneas cantándoles un poquito como es nuestra vida en momentos, en el base, sin mucho más que hacer que nuestros cuerpos sigan asimilando los estímulos que les dimos en la pasada excursión de la altura del Lobuche.

Los días amanecen cerca de las 5,30 hs., comienza a haber luz dentro de nuestras carpas, al ser de color claro inmediatamente se prenden como una lamparita. Para tratar de tirar un poco más el sueño me enrosco el gorro de lana hasta debajo de los ojos y así normalmente llego medio dormido hasta las 6,30hs. Relojito biológico.

Como el Base Camp queda justo al Oeste del pie del Everest, el sol tarda un montón en poder  escalarlo diariamente, hasta no antes de las 7,45 hs. no sentimos el calorcito de sus rayos cuando pegan en nuestras carpas. Hasta ese momento no son más que una gran bolsa conservadora del frío nocturno. No creo equivocarme en decirles que en más de un momento hace mas frío adentro que afuera… Es cierto que cuando sopla viento, se está mucho más protegido en la carpa.

Todos los días, a eso de las 6,45 hs., que son las 10 de la noche en Buenos Aires, prendo el Iridium – mi teléfono satelital- dentro de la bolsa de dormir para que se caliente un poquito y la llamo a Luisita, mi mujer, y ahí nos confundimos en unas buenas noches, buenos días… ¿Saben qué? … Soy extrañero, voy casi un mes fuera de casa y estas llamadas diarias son una gran alegría.

Sigamos. A las 7,45 hs. salgo de la bolsa, me reequipo con abrigo y salgo a preparar los mates. De a poco van cayendo, normalmente Matoco es el primero en sumarse. El desayuno, huevos y más huevos con tostadas, nos los traen Shiva y Lapa a eso de las nueve.

Luego, día libre. Esto no significa que podamos estar tirados en el calorcito de las carpas, hay que moverse, hay que procurar que el cuerpo y la sangre circulen y vayan trabajando en el proceso de aclimatación.

Todavía no estamos para fuertes exigencias, así que con Miguel a las mañanas damos un par de vueltas por el Base Camp, espiando un poquito las diferentes expediciones que hay este año. No es una caminata larga, pero nos lleva cerca de unas dos horitas.

Este año hay 25 expediciones diferentes, menos que el año pasado, y lo que si hay mucho menos son escaladores para el Everest, somos 150 nomás. La demanda este año se la lleva el Lothse con 85 escaladores, tengan en cuenta que el año pasado solo fueron 5 los que tentaron la cumbre, entre ellos Matoco, que la hizo sin oxígeno.

Dentro de las expediciones hay dos españolas, la de Juanito Oyarzabal, el escalador occidental que más ochomiles ha subido, y la de Edurne Pasaban, la primer mujer que el año pasado consiguió escalar los 14 ochomiles.

Ambas expediciones nos han retado a ver quién trajo la mejor comida. Habrá un rico duelo la próxima semana cuando bajemos de los campamentos de altura… Pero no tienen chances… Ellos creen que por haber traído unos jabugos van a poder con la tremenda batería de nuestras delicatessens. ¡¡¡Imposible!!! Ya les contaré.

Estas caminatas vienen muy bien, después de estos cortos paseos nos sentimos con aire renovado. Esto nos prepara bien para el almuerzo. Babu Ram, el Sidar del Base Camp, todos los días nos pregunta que queremos comer… Ojo tampoco es que podamos elegir a carta abierta, pero él se las arregla muy bien entre arroz, pasta, mas huevos y a veces pollo o carne de Yak… Hoy almorzamos unas tortillitas de queso con tomate, siempre picantón, ensalada de zanahoria fresca y un especie de pastel de carne de Yak, un poco sequito… Pero todo muy rico.

… Siguiendo con las distintas expediciones. Todas ellas son medianamente parecidas, además de las españolas que les comente, hay de todas las nacionalidades y continentes. Todas están ubicadas en la morrena lateral derecha del glaciar Khumbu, ni bien este termina con su brutal caída en cascada.

A lo largo de la morrena se van acomodando todas. En nuestro caso somos unos de los que estamos más arriba, un lugar muy tranquilo, ya que las expediciones que vienen de abajo, rumbo a los campamentos de altura, entran a la cascada unos cien metros antes de nuestra posición.

En el medio se encuentra un enjambre de muchas expediciones. Realmente esto es muy incomodo, no hay privacidad, bastante ruido, sobretodo cuando los sherpas salen casi a diario tempranito a aprovisionar los campamentos de altura.

Abajo se encuentran las dos expediciones más grandes. Primero la de Rusell Brice, se acuerdan aquel que hizo la serie “Everest belong the limits” que se paso hace dos años por Discovery Channel, bueno ese, ahora está trabajando con sus grupos por esta ruta, la Sur. Después de Rusell se encuentra IMG, los americanos, son un montón, a su vez estos se dividen en varios grupos de trabajo.

En estas fotos que comparto con ustedes, podrán hacerse una idea más acabada de estas cosas que les cuento.

Practicar, practicar y practicar

Estos días también sirven para practicar un poquito. El andar sobre el hielo, transitar sus irregularidades, subir y bajas sus paredes implica movimientos muy distinto a los que hacemos en terrenos normales… El uso de grampones, jumars, cuerdas, seguros… Todos los días se aprende algo nuevo y ponemos mas confianza en nuestros movimientos.

Así que ayer a la tarde nos fuimos al inicio de la cascada a unas formaciones glaciarias., como unas torres. Armamos una ruta de subida con jumar, seguro de ascensión y un par de rapeles… Por mi parte tengo un montón de experiencia en esto, no solo el Everest el año pasado, sino en Alaska, Antártida, Rusia, varios Tronadores y otras varias montañas. Pero para Miguel todo esto es un mundo nuevo… Como un chiquito tiene que aprender a caminar y moverse en estos nuevos terrenos… Tambalea, casi se patina, casi cae… Sube… Baja… Pero termino con una sonrisa enorme… ¡¡Copadisimo¡¡ Celia como hacemos para llevar de vuelta a casa a este Sherpa¡¡¡

El estar tranquilos en el base nos da tiempo para de a poco pasar cierto tiempo con los Sherpas, una vez que ellos bajan de los campamentos de altura… Bueno les cuento… Estos muchachos, no llega ninguno a mas de 27 años, se levantan a las 3 de la mañana, desayunan, muy fuerte, se calzan sus mochilas con 35/40 kilos y a las 3,30 salen a la cascada, llegan en unas 4 horas al Camp2, dejan las cargas y empiezan a acondicionarlo…

Recuerden que el Camp2 esta sobre una morrena lateral del Khumbu, ahora ya cerca de su inicio, no muy lejos de la pared del Lothse, justo debajo de la cumbre del Everest. Con pala y pico… Si pala y pico a esa altura y temperaturas… Los Sherpas construyen plataformas uniformes donde poner las carpas nuestras, la carpa comedor, la cocina y el depósito!!!

Están en este campamento hasta cerca de mediodía y pegan la vuelta al Base Camp… Así 3 a 4 veces por semana…. (Y yo que ya estoy cansado solo en pensar que tengo que pasar, mañana, la cascada, y de ida solamente!!!)

Una vez que ellos han bajado y descansan un rato nos encontramos en su carpa o en la carpa cocina a charlar un rato y tomar unos mates… No se dan idea el estrago que hizo Taraguí en nuestro mundo sherpa¡¡ … Mattte… Hummm… Yes… Les encanta, tanto que ellos ya tienen su propio mate, yerba y bombilla¡¡¡

¡Gran picada de altura!

Ayer a la tarde, luego de nuestra práctica en el hielo, me dedique un buen tiempo a preparar una picada de aquellas… Ciervo ahumado, jamoncito de jabalí (productos Canali), los riquísimos Cagnolis, Jamón, bondiolita, salame, sopresatta… Todos fileteados bien finitos… Encontré una piedra laja que afila un montón… Quesos, tostadas con oliva, aceto y ajito… Aceitunas, papitas, palitos…

… Y a las 6,30hs Tendy Die y los otros 8 Sherpas vinieron a nuestra carpa comedor y les hicimos una “Fiesta”, como ellos lo llaman, una muy linda recepción de agradecimiento por el invalorable trabajo que están llevando en los campamentos de altura. En especial ayer que se termino de armar el Camp2.

Fue muy lindo. Uno a uno se fueron presentando. Siempre inician su charla, ante nosotros, con una reverencia, luego comienzan muy tímidamente a decir quienes son, como se llaman, de que villa son oriundos y su experiencia en las montañas… Mamita… Solo Tendy Die con sus 27 años ya tiene 8 cumbres del Everest!!!

La pasamos muy bien, mutuamente estamos agradecidos de compartir este momento. No es usual que haya tanta interacción entre los “escaladores” y los Sherpas… Pero esto seguro es una de las cosas lindas de los argentinos… ¿¿no??

Y como todos los días, llega la noche… Y que frío¡¡¡

Después de comer, cargo las botellas con agua hirviendo y a la bolsa. Cuesta dormir, son muchas las horas que pasamos en la cucha, así de a poquito, entre rezo y rezo voy entrando en calor y quedando dormido.

Les cuento, estos días después de rezar unas decenas del Rosario estoy recitando aquellas lindísimas frases de Teresa de Calcuta, me las pusieron mis hijas en el bolso antes de salir de casa… Me emocionan, por lo que dicen… Y porque me unen mucho a mis chiquitas¡¡ Se las paso, si alguno se anima a rezarlas, seguro en ese momento me sentiré muy acompañado¡¡

… Ahí van…

La vida es una canción, cántala

La vida es un juego, juégalo

La vida es un desafía, enfréntalo

La vida es un sacrificio, ofréndelo

La vida es amor, disfrútalo

La vida es una oportunidad, aprovéchala

La vida es belleza, admírala

La vida es beatitud, saboréala

La vida es un sueño, hazlo realidad

La vida es un reto, afróntalo

La vida es una promesa, cúmplela

La vida es preciosa, cuídala

La vida es riqueza, consérvala

La vida es un misterio, descúbrelo

La vida es tristeza, domínala

La vida es aventura, vívela

La vida es felicidad, merécela

La vida es VIDA, Defiéndela¡¡¡¡

… Saben que… Mucho, mucho de esto, tiene una enorme conexión con el momento en que estoy viviendo… Mucho de esto tiene una enorme conexión con la montaña… Será por eso que desde los principios, siempre, cada uno de nosotros, vio a su Dios, en la cima de las montañas, en las alturas….

Y si, después de esto me quedo dormido… Y con un poquito de frío pasan las noches…

Les mando un fuertísimo abrazo, muchas gracias por la compañía que son para todos nosotros. A la vuelta de los campamentos de altura les cuento un poquito mas de cómo seguimos viviendo esta nuestra vida, nuestra aventura¡¡¡

Con un fuerte cariño, Leo
fuente: http://patagonianbrothers.com/site2011/     y  http://blogs.lanacion.com.ar/everest/

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189 thoughts on “Qué hacen 4 argentinos a más de 6.000 metros de altura?”

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