Donde viven los ángeles

El 23 de Mayo se escribió una nueva página en la historia del pico más alto del mundo, el monte Everest, al ser conquistado por un grupo de expedicionarios formado íntegramente por argentinos.

 Ese día este grupo de aventureros logró lo que muchos desean, llegar a ese lugar donde reina el silencio, las nubes son el piso y el sol calienta más cerca, ese lugar tan único e increible… donde viven los ángeles.

“Llamamos para contar a nuestras familias que los 5 integrantes estábamos en la cumbre.Yo particularmente le agradecí a Dios y a la Virgen de Lourdes el regalo que estábamos recibiendo y le pedí que nos protegiera en el descenso. También pensé en el objetivo y vi trascender la cumbre hacia otras personas que lo estaban disfrutando más que nosotros en casa, en los que nos empujaron, en los que solo lo pensaron y en todos los demás que les puede llegar en algún momento el mensaje de amor a la montaña y a la naturaleza, de que se puede, que los sueños se cumplen, que se hacen realidad si luchamos.”

Charly Galosi es un gran deportista barilochense, profesor de educación física, guía de montaña y de trekking, ascendió más de 30 montañas en distintas partes del mundo y es uno de los mejores corredores de aventura del país.

Hace muchos años que lo conozco, los dos corremos para el Banco Hipotecario, por lo que compartimos muchas carreras y les cuento que además de ser una gran persona, siempre esta dispuesto a ayudar a los demás y tiene un amor por la montaña y la naturaleza que se refleja en todo momento. Desde que lo conozco su sueño siempre fue subir el Everest, finalmente después de muchos años, junto con 4 amigos barilochenses lograron conseguir el apoyo necesario para comenzar con esta gran hazaña y hacer historia al ser la primera expedición íntegramente argentina en hacer cumbre en la montaña más alta del mundo.

Aqui esta el relato que Charly escribió paraustedes

 Por Charly Galosi .Resumen Everest 2010 – De Argentina a Nepal.

Desde que comenzó el proyecto, pasaron más de 20 meses para poder concretar este sueño que se instaló en nuestra mente en primer lugar, luego en el corazón de un grupo de 5 amigos barilochenses, para recién poder transmitir lo que queríamos lograr y ganarnos la confianza de gente que nos acompañó.

El objetivo no era solo ascender la montaña más alta del mundo con la primer expedición Argentina, sino también asumimos el compromiso de promover el Andinismo, que es la actividad que elegimos como filosofía de vida.

Era el inicio de una utopía, de una voluntad, que poco a poco se fue transformando en un camino, en el que solo se podían dar pasos concretos con mucho trabajo en equipo.

Así se sumaron el Banco Hipotecario, Francisco Minieri Saent-Beat y muchos otros empresarios y comerciantes de Bariloche que apostaron por nosotros en este emprendimiento avalado por el una noble institución como es el Club Andino Bariloche.

Varios fueron los meses de entrenamiento y preparación antes de poner un pié en el avión rumbo a Katmandú, lugar en que comenzamos a vivir la cultura y el mundo Sherpa por primera vez. Un clima de espiritualidad mezclado con bocinas y transito alocado.

Luego de un pequeño vuelo a Lukla, (2.750m) comenzamos la aproximación de casi 10 días hasta el Campamento Base (BC) (5.360m), la distancia no era excesiva, pero caminábamos poco por día y así hacer una buena base de aclimatación, ascendiendo no más de 400 metros de desnivel por jornada.

La Aclimatación.

Al final de los valles nepalíes, se encontraban las paredes más elevadas de la cadena del Himalaya, del lado norte de las cumbres se encuentra Tibet y sobre el sur del monte Everest está el valle del Khumbu, con un glaciar viviente en dónde está el Campamento Base.

En el base teníamos muchas comodidades: Carpas individuales para dormir, carpa comedor y cocina, baños y duchas con agua caliente, comida de primera calidad, comunicación satelital y todo lo necesario para que una expedición de dos meses este abastecida.

Durante los primeros días, nos acomodamos y descansamos, de paso nos seguíamos aclimatando para poder estar mejor a la hora de subir hacia los campos altos y para sentirse bien no hay otra cosa que paciencia y moverse tranquilo.

A pocos metros del CB comenzaba la casca del Khumbu, que se convertiría en el lugar más técnico de toda la montaña, pero para poder ingresar a la misma tuvimos que hacer una ceremonia Sherpa llamada Puja, en donde un Lama nos bendecía dándonos la protección para poder subir.

Varios fueron los viajes hacia los campamento de altura llevando material y tratando de forzar subir más metros a medida que pasaban los días para lograr un estado óptimo ante la exposición a la altura.

Así pasaban los días, desde CB al Camp1 (6.000m), al Camp 2 (6450m) y al Camp 3 (7.300m), bajar, descansar y volver a subir material y completar los ciclos y tiempos fisiológicos.

Una vez equipada la montaña descendimos a los valles para oxigenarnos más y estar listos para subir el Everest de forma completa.

El Ataque.

En las demás expediciones que estaban en el CB se vivía una “Fiebre de Cumbre”, una ansiedad por esa ventana de buen clima, por ese preciado día de cumbre. El grupo nuestro estaba muy tranquilo, descansamos y con paciencia esperamos y mantuvimos la motivación hasta que se vio por los pronósticos satelitales la posibilidad de ascender el día 23 de Mayo.

Por la mañana del 19 de Mayo comenzamos el ataque a la cumbre, atravesamos la cascada del Khumbu, llegamos hasta el Camp 2 donde dormimos y descansamos un día, el 21 de Mayo estábamos en el Camp 3 y el 22 comenzó el día de cumbre, ya que llegamos al medio día al Camp 4 (8.000m), nos hidratamos, dormimos unas horas y esa misma noche a las 9 pm comenzamos el ascenso hacia la cumbre.

Caminamos en la oscuridad durante horas con temperaturas de hasta -35ºC, intentando calentarnos aumentando nuestro de ritmo de marcha pasando gente de otras expediciones, cuando empezó a amanecer comenzó el disfrute total de nuestros ojos al ver la sombra del coloso proyectado sobre todo Tíbet, las montañas de 7000m que veíamos desde los valles como enormes moles, ahora ya estaban varios cientos de metros abajo, el grupo se movía compacto, juntos trabajando para poder llegar al mismo ritmo a la cumbre.

Se hizo muy dura esta última parte desde el Collado Sur (Camp 4 ) a la cumbre (8.848m) por el frío, el cansancio acumulado y el peso del equipo, pero todo ese dolor y sufrimiento desapareció a las 08:23 hs del 23 de Mayo cuando pisamos la cumbre de la montaña más alta del mundo.

Como se vivió la cumbre.

Al llegar arriba lo primero que hicimos fue abrazarnos los cinco, sacamos fotos y grabamos videos llorando de emoción. Cada uno tuvo su momento solo para observar la belleza que estaba a nuestros pies, las miles de montañas que nos rodeaban, el cielo más azul que nunca; un entorno increíble, con la bandera Argentina en la semana del Bicentenario.

Llamamos para contar a nuestras familias que los 5 integrantes estábamos en la cumbre.

Yo particularmente le agradecí a Dios y a la Virgen de Lourdes el regalo que estábamos recibiendo y le pedí que nos protegiera en el descenso. También pensé en el objetivo y vi trascender la cumbre hacia otras personas que lo estaban disfrutando más que nosotros en casa, en los que nos empujaron, en los que solo lo pensaron y en todos los demás que les puede llegar en algún momento el mensaje de amor a la montaña y a la naturaleza, de que se puede, que los sueños se cumplen, que se hacen realidad si luchamos.

El sueño se hacia realidad de a poco, con cada paso sobre la arista final hacia la cumbre, en cada segundo vivido en la sima y en el corazón de todos los que nos empujaron hacia arriba. Lo empezamos a vivir como un objetivo conjunto, por el esfuerzo de todo un grupo de amigos que teníamos la misma pasión que se resume en el amor por la montaña, un amor que empezó de chicos saliendo a caminar por nuestros senderos, aprendiendo de los más grandes del CAB y trabajando en la Comisión de Auxilios de nuestro club para ayudar a las personas que tienen problemas en la montaña.

Por otro lado, la bajada apremiaba y después de permanecer 35 minutos emprendimos el regreso al Camp 4. El código para darse cuenta de los problemas y tratar de solucionarlos que aprendimos en la CAX (Comisión de Auxilios) nos dio la posibilidad de ayudar a varias personas que estaban en problemas. También bajamos algo de basura de expediciones anteriores y todo nuestro material que cada vez era más pesado al desarmar los campamentos y acercarnos al CB, fue un descenso durísimo y recién comenzamos a sentir pertenencia de la cumbre en la seguridad del Base.

La vuelta a casa.

La llegada a Argentina fue una de las cosas más lindas que vivimos, luego de los 70 días de estar en Nepal, tuvimos un recibimiento totalmente inesperado.

Sentimos que de verdad el objetivo estaba cumplido, ya que solo con que lo hayamos logrado es solo un símbolo para poder transmitirlo: juntos somos más.

El mayor anhelo es poder marcar un hito en las actividades y poder inspirar a muchos, sobre todo a los niños y jóvenes, a hacer cosas al aire libre, aunque solo sea un pequeño ejemplo para los de que vienen atrás.

Integrantes: Director General: Francisco Minieri Sant-Beat,   Jefe y Médico: Ramón Chiocconi, Documentación y Finazas: Marcelo “Topo” Deza, Campamentos: Alvar Puente, Imágenes: Leonardo “Cuny” Proverbio, Preparación Física: “Charly” Galosi.

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271 thoughts on “Donde viven los ángeles”

  1. Es fascinante leer todo lo que escribieron acerca del esfuerzo del ascenso pero hay una parte que esta incompleta en el relato y en los agradecimientos.
    Estos cinco argentinos subieron con el apoyo y la guia de dos argentinos mas; los hermanos benegas, que por decision de los sponsors (supongo) no los nombran en ninguna nota, y justamente los benegas, (uno de los cuales con esta, sumo su decima ascension al everest)
    fueron quienes brindaron todo su apoyo y su experiencia y hasta decidian que iban a comer, y esto no lo mencionan en ninguna parte.
    me parece importante aclararlo.

    porque el reconociemiento es de ellos tambien

  2. Los hermanos Benegas sin dudas son un icono en el Everest, ellos tiene una empresa que es contratada para la logistica. Existen varias empresas que realizan esto y justamente por tratarse de una expedicion puramente argentina, se decidio contratarlos a ellos.
    La cumbre la hicieron solo los 5 argentinos, ya que los Benegas estaban guiando a otra expedicion.
    Muchas gracias por tu comentario

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